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Records & stories · 1920

The Diary of Arne Erickson

Flat to Anchorage on foot, 28 October to 18 November 1920: 350 miles of the Iditarod Trail in twenty-one days.

This diary testifies to the hardiness of the pioneers who thought nothing of walking 350 miles across the wilderness of Alaska. Arne and his friend Oscar started in Flat, Alaska. (The settlements of Flat, Flat City, Iditarod and Discovery are within eight miles of each other.)

Nothing is changed, including punctuation and spelling. Permission to relate this was given by Arne’s granddaughter, Marjorie A. McConnell (from a searchable database of early Anchorage residents, 1910–1935, at alaskahistory.org). Arne’s own words are in italics; editors’ notes are shaded.

Design note: This is the Alliance’s 2015 Story Map, brought back. Esri retired Classic Story Maps, and the Story Map page on the current site now shows “The Diary of Arne Erickson has been retired. Replacement not available.” Every day of the diary, every editors’ note, all 25 stops and the trail lines were still in the public ArcGIS item data; we extracted them on {CAPTURED} and rebuilt them as an ordinary page. The Story Map also had 20 photographs of roadhouses and the Trail. They’re still online, marked All Rights Reserved by the photographer, so we show their captions here rather than the pictures, and restoring them is on the content needs list for the Alliance to clear.
Map of the Iditarod National Historic Trail, Seward to Nome The route Arne Erickson walked in 1920, from Flat east to Takotna and McGrath, across the Alaska Range by Rainy Pass, down to Skwentna and Susitna Station, and on to Knik and Anchorage. Each overnight stop is listed as a day below. FlatRuby RoadhouseMoore CreekCamp under a treeHalfway HouseVillage up the Big RiverTakotnaMcGrathBerry’s (Big River Roadhouse)Salmon River RoadhousePiluk RoadhouseFrench Joe’s (Pioneer Roadhouse)RohnAnderson’s RoadhouseHappy River RoadhouseMountain Climbers RoadhouseSkwentna CrossingLake View RoadhouseSusitna StationLittle Susitna RoadhouseKnik, then Anchorage
  • Iditarod National Historic Trail (main routes)
  • Arne Erickson’s walk, 1920
Trail lines from the Alliance’s 2015 Story Map; community locations from the U.S. Census Bureau and USGS; coastline from Natural Earth. Drawn in code, retrieved 18 October 2026.

Day 0

Flat, Alaska on October 28, 1920

Flat

Oscar and I brought down the rest of our stuff from the Up Grade and left that claim for good. Was up to Dave Strandberg’s for supper. Left his house at about 9 A. M. and went to bed at Abe Weiss.

Day 1

October 29, 1920

Ruby Roadhouse

Started for the outside. Fine weather. Left Flat at twelve noon. Stopped in at Mrs. Harms and Jim Farrells. Had a cup of coffe and left Jims at l0 minutes to 1 P.M. Got to Ruby roadhouse at 6:30 P.M. Good road but pack pretty heavy and my shoulder is awful sore. 16 miles from Otter. [Otter Creek and Flat are synonymous.]

Photograph in the Story Map: The Ruby Roadhouse in 1977. Most buildings on the old Iditarod were built with wood and sod roofs, and have collapsed due to the elements.

Day 2

October 30, 1920

Moore Creek

Started from Ruby roadhouse 7:30 A.M. Stopped for lunch 8 miles out. Got to Moore Creek 9 P.M. Pretty tough going. Had to snowshoe about half way. 22 miles from Ruby roadhouse.

Photograph in the Story Map: The Iditarod Trail travels travels through stunted black spruce and larch forests, occasionally burnt over by wild fires.

Day 3

October 31, 1920

Camp under a tree

Left Moore at 6:30 A.M. Lots of snow. Had to snowshoe all the way. Tough going. Started to make camp at 5 P.M. 11 miles from Moore Creek. Put pot of beans on camp fire and had supper when beans was cooked and they was burnt all to hell. Got pretty sick after eating burnt beans and went to bed under a tree. Snowing all day and night.

A century ago most Iditarod Trail users stayed at cabins, rather than camping. Camping was called ‘siwashing’.

Day 4

November 1, 1920

Halfway House

Left camp at 5:30 A.M. Had some of the burnt beans. Was sick as a dog all day. Had to take a dose of salts. On the snowshoes all day. Made ten miles to Halfway House. Cooked up the last of our grub. Pretty tough house to stay in-old smoky heater. Had to sleep on table. 58 1/2 miles from Flat.

Photograph in the Story Map: Historic shelter cabin on the modern-day Iditarod Trail. Due to the lack of timber and the challenge of heating a structure at -50F, most roadhouses and shelter cabins are rather small.

Day 5

November 2, 1920

Village up the Big River

Left Halfway House at 7 A.M. Was on snowshoes all day. Got to Big River Roadhouse at 3 P.M. Nobody home so we had to go up river to an Indian Village. Nobody home there either. We broke into a cache and found a little flour and sugar. On our way up I shot one grouse and one ptarmigan so we will have supper tonight. Oscar is cook. 72 3/4 miles from Flat.

Photograph in the Story Map: On the Iditarod Trail, small slow-growing trees offer little shelter for the trail traveler, hence the importance of roadhouses and cabins.

Day 6

November 3, 1920

Takotna

Left Indian village at 8 A.M. Got to big River at 9:30 A.M. Put on our packs and started off. Oscar and I left 2 dollars in flour sack and I dollar on the table for the lodging and grub. Had to snowshoe down the river about 8 miles. Nothing to eat all day. Hard going. Arrived at Takotna about 6:30 P.M. All well.

Photograph in the Story Map: During the gold rush days Takotna was a busy town on the edge of the Ophir goldfields.

Day 7

November 4, 1920

Takotna

Layed over today. Heard it was too crowded at McGrath. Went to call on Mrs. Lowery. All’s well. Paid $5.00 for a two and half months subscription to Kusko Times [newspaper].

Day 8

November 5, 1920

McGrath

Left Takotna at 8 A.M. Good mushing to McGrath. Got in at 2 P.M. 16 miles.

Photograph in the Story Map: The remains of the pilot house of the paddle-wheeler ‘LaVelle Young’ at the old McGrath town site. McGrath was the upper most point of navigation by steamers (and today barges) on the Kuskokwim River. The contemporary town site is across the Kuskokwim River and is a present day checkpoint during the Iditarod Sled Dog Race.

Day 9

November 6, 1920

Berry’s (Big River Roadhouse)

Left McGrath at 7 A., M. Made twelve miles by noon. Had lunch and went twelve miles farther, 24 miles today. Good walking. Got in at 6 P.M. Had to sleep on floor. [Evidently overnight at Berry Road House.]

Photograph in the Story Map: Berry’s Roadhouse was better known as the Big River Roadhouse. Nothing remains as the site today due to erosion.

Day 10

November 7, 1920

Salmon River Roadhouse

Left Berry on Big River at 7 A. M. Walked 17 miles today. Arrived Salmon Roadhouse at 1 P.M. 149 miles from Flat. Good mushing today. Had big supper and feeling fine 30 above.

Photograph in the Story Map: A private subsistence fishing camp at the Salmon River crossing of the Iditarod Trail.

Day 11

November 8, 1920

Piluk Roadhouse

Left Salmon at 6:30 A. M. Mushed 12 miles. Had lunch and mushed another nine miles. Got in at Piluck at 3 P.M. in good order. Trail good, mushing fine today. No Snow.

Photograph in the Story Map: Iditarod Trail user at the Peluk River Roadhouse. Long, thin snowshoes were favored for travel across the dry, sugar-like snow of interior Alaska.

Day 12

November 9, 1920

French Joe’s (Pioneer Roadhouse)

Left Piluck at 6:45 A. M. Raining a little in the morning then turning into snow. Mushing fine, no snow on ground. All creeks frozen. 190 miles from Flat. Got to French Joes at 2 P.M. Twenty miles mushing today. Alls well.

Photograph in the Story Map: French Joe, the Pioneer Roadhouse proprietor, was reputed to keep a thermometer that showed temperatures significantly lower than the actual air temperatures, thereby encouraging travelers to spend an extra night, and spend more money at his roadhouse. Additionally, Antelope and ibex have never inhabited Alaska. Roadhouse owners were known for stretching the truth.

Photograph in the Story Map: In 2010, the remains of the Pioneer Roadhouse were destroyed by the Turquoise Lake wildfire, which also burnt over 28 miles of the historic Iditarod Trail. The tan rectangles are piles of ash from the burnt log walls of the roadhouse.

Day 13

November 10, 1920

Rohn

Left French Joes at 6;30 A.M. Blowing to beat the band. Mushed about I9 1/2 miles. Got in at 2:30 in good shape. Mushing fine from French Joes to Davis [likely Rohn Roadhouse] on Rohn River [Tatina River today] . All’s well.

Photograph in the Story Map: A historic cabin at Rohn in 1977, likely built by Einar Carlson after his previous cabin was knocked down by a large earthquake in the early 1930’s. The tower was for a wind generator, and the pile of logs in the lower foreground was a dog barn. This cabin was washed away by the Tatina River (background right) in 1988. Today the BLM Public Shelter Cabin at Rohn is an important checkpoint for the Iditarod Sled Dog Race, the Iron Dog snowmobile race, and the Iditarod Invitational Ultramarathon.

Day 14

November 11, 1920

Anderson’s Roadhouse

Left Davis at 6:40 A.M. Good walking for about nine miles up Dills (Dalzell) Canyon She was a bad one on Rainy Pass snowing and blowing. Got to Andersons 6:20 P.M. 12 hours out, had to snowshoe from summit on down. Mushed 24 miles today. Feeling fine.

Photograph in the Story Map: One of the most notorious sections of the trail both historically and today, the route runs at the base of cliffs on shelves of ice built up along the creek. More than a few mushers have ended up in the creek. (Erickson misspelled the name of the canyon, commonly called a gorge today.)

Day 15

November 12, 1920

Happy River Roadhouse

Left Andersons at 6:30A.M. Mushed 29 miles. Got in at 9 P.M. not too bad. Got in to Happy feeling fine. Paid for Oscar $6.00 and $4 for lunch.

Photograph in the Story Map: Impressively, Erickson walked from Rohn to Anderson's Roadhouse, over one of the most arduous sections of the trail, in twelve hours. The remains of Anderson’s Roadhouse were not discovered until 2012.

Day 16

November 13, 1920

Mountain Climbers Roadhouse

Left Happy Roadhouse at 6:40 A.M. Caught up with and passed a dog team that was hauling a big shipment of gold [$150,000] from dredge at Candle Creek to Anchorage for shipment to Seattle. Had to snowshoe all the way to Mountian Climbers 21 1/2 miles. Got in at 8 P.M. Pretty tired and nobody at roadhouse and nothing to eat. Hungry as a bear. When dog team drove in I talked driver out of a small piece of reindeer meat [his dog feed] . Cooked this and devided it up between six of us. Saved a bit of the broth for morning. Collected $l.00 from the boys except Oscar. Feeling fine.

Photograph in the Story Map: A typical view down the historic trail. Beyond Happy River, the trail enters the broad, forested plateaus of the upper Skwenta River.

Day 17

November 14, 1920

Skwentna Crossing

Left Mountian Climbers at 6:30 A.M. Had about half a cup of reindeer soup for break fast. Good mushing to Skwentha. Made twenty miles. Was in at Skwentha Crossing about 3 P.M. and had a big supper. Feeling fine. 295 miles from Iditarod . [The town of Iditarod was near Flat, Alaska.]

Photograph in the Story Map: Today the roadhouse at Old Skwentna is gone and all that remains is this historic relief cabin that did not exist at the time of Erickson’s trip.

Day 18

November 15, 1920

Lake View Roadhouse

Left Skwentha Crossing at 7 A.M. Got into Lake View at 3:45 P.M. Pretty wet mushing. Raining more or less all day. Been thinking about wife and kiddies. Getting closer every day. Feeling fine.

Photograph in the Story Map: A full moon on the modern day Iditarod Trail, with a shelter cabin in the distance.

Day 19

November 16, 1920

Susitna Station

Left Lake View at 6 A. M. Got in to Susitna at 2:40 P.M. Was nine mushers together along the trail--not too bad. Cost $1.00 to get across the river. River broke a couple of day ago. Had a good feed when we got in. Everything in good order. Feeling fine. 335 miles from Iditarod.

Photograph in the Story Map: Susitna Station from a riverboat: Susitna Station was the first large community on the historic Iditarod Trail south of McGrath, with steamboat connections to the Lower 48. Nothing remains of the town today.

Day 20

November 17, 1920

Little Susitna Roadhouse

Left Susitna at 7 A. M. got into Little Susitna at 2:30 P.M. Wet snow half the way then turn to rain. Got pretty wet before we got in. Ate lunch we had along as roadhouse was not open. Paid $7.00 at Susitna. 353 1/2 miles from Iditarod. Feeling fine.

Photograph in the Story Map: Mushers often relied on wild game for sustenance along the trail.

Day 21

November 18, 1920

Knik, then Anchorage

Left Little Susitna at 7 A. M. Got to Knik at l P. M. Stopped for lunch and boat was ready to leave for Anchorage at 5:30 P.M. Every place filled up. Finally got a room at the Northern Hotel. [The Northern Hotel was located at 5th Avenue and K Street.] Bought a full suit of clothes and a grip. Paid $ l5.75. Also bought some fruit for $1.50. Was pretty hungry for fruit. Too late to send telegram to wife (in Seattle) . Feeling fine.

Photograph in the Story Map: For the first few decades of its existence, Anchorage streets were not plowed in the winter, leaving a good travel surface for sled dog teams, which were a regular sight on the streets.

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